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Those stats converge quickly and are the basis for any HUD setup. If you are just starting out, I would only use those five stats. Be sure to bring up the pop-up window to get a sense of the sample size involved and to gauge the validity of the number. The combination of the Flop C-Bet stat and the Fold to Flop C-Bet stat should give you some insight into how robotically your opponent plays post-flop. The larger the sample size, the better.

That said, the third line gives me an idea of how often a player is stealing from specific steal positions. Since four-handed poker is very dynamic, this allows me to start building an opening range for each player from those three steal positions. Finally, the fourth line is the antithesis of the third line. It tells me how often I can steal when my opponent is in the blinds as well as how frequently they three-bet or call when they choose to play back.

Doing so will give you a much more complete picture of your opponent. Initial Reads You simply cannot afford to wait until you have a few hundred hands on an opponent to start making some assumptions about their play. Here are some factors that I look at with little to no hands on a given player.

Stack Size This should be the first and the most noticeable read you make on your opponent. The standard buy-in for most regulars is the maximum amount allowed. Most regulars also have the auto top-off and the auto-reload features on.

If someone is sitting with a stack less than big blinds, they are likely a recreational and therefore a weaker player. Most of these players will buy in for 50 to 80 big blinds and not top-off until they get stacked. Number of Tables in Play You can check this information in the lobby of most poker sites.

The vast majority of regulars will play multiple tables while most recreational players will play just one or two. It is also important to note that an opponent playing a lot of tables is likely to play a more straight-forward style. Bet Sizing The standard preflop open is 3 to 4 big blinds from early and middle positions and 2. When three-betting in position, raising to around pot or to just under is standard. Out of position, it is normal to three-bet to around pot or to slightly more.

Any deviation from this should be noted unless you have additional reads. The more extreme the deviation, the more likely the opponent plays a losing style. Timing Tells When it comes to decision making, most good players will act in a consistent, timely manner. Conversely, weaker players will tend to act quickly most of the time.

In general, quick actions indicate someone who is fixated on their cards and who knows what they want to do before they face a bet. The most likely reasons are because they are either on a draw or they want to get to showdown with a marginal made hand. Often when these players take a long time to make a decision, they are strong in their mind and are trying to feign weakness. Basic Player Types I try to classify my opponents figure in one of these categories as quickly as possible. Based on some of my initial reads, I try to make the initial differentiation between competent and fishy.

Then as I play more hands against them, I try to make a secondary classification such as nit, TAG, and so on. Finally, I stay open to the possibility that I classified a player incorrectly and may need to re-classify them. Do not make a habit of making moves on them once they enter a pot. With nits, you can make money by relentlessly stealing their blinds. Each will have their own unique leaks so make an effort to understand them individually.

The majority of TAGs will be fairly competent in most areas. It will take some study to realize in which areas they are not. These players often become victims of my loose three-bets which are designed to punish them for opening too wide preflop. You will have to tighten up your opening ranges when these players are left to act. But the good news is that you can loosen up your three-bet and your four-bet value ranges.

Because they are passive, their Aggression Factor will be less than 1. The key with loose-passives is to isolate them appropriately. Value bet top pair or better over multiple streets and fold all but the strongest hands once they start raising or re-raising you.

They should be fairly easy to play against, especially since most play fairly straight-forward postflop. Aggro Monkey Aggro monkeys can be difficult to play against regardless of your skill level. They are aggressive so they have an Aggression Factor greater than 2. Versus these players, your goal should be to make a pair and to show it down.

If you have a weak second pair type hand, try to get to showdown cheaply. With top pair and a good kicker where top pair is tens or better , you can often play it like you have the nuts. However, when they run up a stack, you can be sure that they leave a table full of tilted players in their wake. Figure shows how the player types were distributed. Figure shows the distribution over 65, hands in my 25NL database for 34 players total.

So what should you take away from this? Most regulars tend to be either nits or TAGs. Most nits are fairly easy to play against and most TAGs will have to be addressed individually. This makes me think that he. Fundamental Three: Develop Reads 39 would check-fold or check-call most turns before he would check-raise.

How to Exploit: Anytime you are heads up versus this type of player, c-bet. With his low Turn C-Bet numbers, he is a prime candidate for being floated on the flop in order to take it away on the turn. If he fires a second bullet however, he is likely to be strong. This opponent also seems like a good candidate for donk betting into given his high Fold Vs C-Bet stat. But since he is so tight, he likely has a hand worth continuing with on most flops.

His Turn C-Bet percentage is reasonable so floating him is not a good idea. His Fold to C-Bet seems low but the sample size is small. His low Steal percentage is worth mentioning as well. How to Exploit: Fold hands that are likely to be dominated like KQ, AJ when facing a raise from him preflop, steal his blinds, and set mine. He also has a low Fold to Three-Bet over a small sample size. So far, he has defended his blind loosely but folds to four-bets.

His low Fold to C- Bet on the flop and the turn in addition to his low Fold to Three-Bet indicates that he is a calling station. Given his low Fold to Three-Bet percentage so far, three-bet him strictly for value. However, expand your value range versus his late position opens. If, on average, you are involved with players that you have a clear, defined edge on, your win rate will be high and your variance will be low.

To determine if you have an edge on another player, you need to: 1. Identify specific leaks in their game. Know strategies for exploiting those leaks. Here are two examples. Example 1: A player on your immediate right is playing over half of his hands and never folds to three-bets or or to c-bets. He is a classic calling station. This is a big leak because he will often have weak hands postflop and you will be able to get value with better pairs and better kickers in position.

This is a dream situation where you are likely to have a big edge. Thus, you call with many more speculative hands preflop, float him on a wide range of flops, and bet turns. You still have an edge against this player, but it is smaller than the one you have against the big calling station in the previous example.

You should look to identify these potential edges as soon as possible when you sit at a new table. Avoiding Players In addition to figuring out who you want to be involved with the most, you also need to figure out who you want to be involved with the least. Here are two examples of players where your edge is small and you should look to avoid unnecessary confrontation.

Example 1: A loose and aggressive player is sitting on your immediate left big blinds deep. When you open from the cutoff or the small blind, he often three-bets or calls and then floats you postflop. He plays a tight range and often bets multiple streets because he has strong hands.

Just remember that as soon as you sit down at a new table, you should start to make a mental list of who you want to be involved with the most and who you want to be involved with the least. After about three orbits, your list should be rather clear. Examine the 25NL sample table figure and figure out who you want to be involved with the most and the least. Players to Engage Player F is a loose-passive player. Player B is another loosepassive opponent, but he will have position on you most of the time.

In those situations, you should consider tightening up your opening ranges to include more high cards KTo, Q9s, etc and fewer middle and low suited connectors or one-gappers 68s, 45s. Look to make a pair with a good kicker and to get a few streets of value. Finally, there is Player H. You should look to play strong hands aggressively versus him and to slow play when you hit a monster.

Positionally, this type of player is preferred on your right since he would be a major hassle on the left. Those are the three major players that you should be focused on. Player E is another potential mark since he just sat down with a smaller unorthodox stack. This is usually a sign of weakness or inexperience.

However, his position on the opposite side of the table will limit the number of opportunities you have with him. Players to Avoid There are the two main players where I estimate my edge to be the smallest. Player A has solid preflop stats and has position on me. Therefore, I will give.

Player C, the short-stacker, given his stats and stack-size, seems to be playing the standard short-stacking strategy. Everyone else at the table seems fairly standard. This will serve as the foundation for your play. In this chapter, I will cover the following topics:. Most of your decisions will fall in those three categories. It is also important to learn when you should deviate from the basic strategy I lay out. Opening the Betting There are two main reasons to raise an unopened pot: 1.

You hope to steal the blinds. You have a hand which will play profitably facing action. When you open from early position and from middle position, you are less likely to steal the blinds than when you open from late position. Therefore, the hands you raise should be hands you expect to be profitable postflop.

When you open from late position however, your decision should be based more on the people left to act behind you. Thus, because of all the variables, your opening ranges from early position will tend to be much more static than your opening ranges from late position. I will suggest opening ranges from the different positions, but first I want to address the size of your opening raise. Opening Bet Sizes By default, I like opening to three times the size of the big blind expressed as 3x from early and middle position and sometimes to 2.

I also open to 3x from the small blind. Here are some pros and cons that we came up with in regards to different opening sizes. Minraise 2x Pros: The minraise is effective against villains who either fold or three-bet but rarely call facing a steal. It is also effective versus tight players.

Cons: A minraise provides your opponents with incentive to call, especially in position. Minraises fail to build a pot when you have strong hands you are likely to win at showdown or will have position postflop you are likely to win without showdown. Big 3. Big raises also build pots quicker when you hold those premium hands. Cons: If you fold to a lot of three-bets, big raises give your opponent a greater incentive to three-bet you.

They also discourage regulars from playing speculative hands versus you when they are out of position. But this is something you want them to do. Moreover, due to the inflated pot sizes, big raises become expensive quickly if you make a lot of postflop mistakes. Standard 2. They also help build a pot when you have position while managing to keep the pot small enough to continue against a standard three-bet.

Cons: Standard raises are not optimal versus opponents who can be better exploited using a different preflop raise size. Opening Ranges Any winning player will tell that a solid understanding of opening ranges is imperative if you hope to be successful in this game. And although poker is far from black and white, the simple fact is you need to start somewhere.

The following tables should serve as a solid foundation upon which you can build. You are likely to see a flop. You will frequently be out of position. Therefore, you need to open with a range of hands table that will play profitably postflop out of position. If there are some huge whales at your table, all pocket pairs should be profitable.

Even if you manage to flop a set, you might suddenly receive lots of action and find yourself on the wrong end of a cooler or so you tell yourself. I know this range may seem tight and nitty to some of you. But I hope you are reading this book to make money, not to prove to the world that you can own people with 86s.

MP1 and MP2 Opening Range Although you should continue playing tight from middle position, you should add a few hands to your default opening range table As a general rule, you are much better off sticking to the tighter opening range shown in the chart above. If there are big fish still left to act, you can add some speculative suited hands like KTs, QTs, T9s, and some suited aces. You will have an opportunity to open up your range in the next few positions where the chances of stealing blinds and playing heads up pots in position jumps dramatically.

Cutoff Opening Range Once you find yourself in the cutoff and the game becomes four handed, you should really start opening up your ranges based on your reads. If the button is three-betting a lot, then you will need to tighten up. I will discuss strategies that deal with aggressive players who have position on you in the small blind section. In the meantime, table shows a default opening range from the cutoff.

The better your reads, the more you should start moving away from static ranges and start adjusting based those reads. I cannot stress this enough. It is important to loosen up and to tighten up accordingly. Button Opening Range What hands you can open from the button depends entirely on who is in the blinds. Readless, start with this range table Keep in mind that if you get called, your opponent will often go to the flop with a strong range.

So tighten up your c-bets. Your range really depends on your opponents. Button Opening Range Versus a Loose-Passive Here is the range of hands you should open with a loose-passive opponent in the blinds table Button opening range versus a loose-passive.

This range will either flop a good pair with good kicker type hand or will give you plenty of cards to barrel with your suited, connected cards. If you happen to hit a high pair, you should look to extract multiple streets of value. Often, if you miss and the loose-passive has a low Fold to C-Bet, just check back and hope to improve. However, you will also play that range much more aggressively. Use this range as your base table If you face a three-bet, but the villain folds to four-bets, four-bet him with a range of hands that has blockers but limited postflop playability.

As shown above, call with kings and aces if the villain has a high Fold to Four-Bet since you will be able to get much more value from them postflop. With reads, adjust as needed. Here is what you should be focusing on. This type of player will probably be playing level one poker. Additionally, he almost always fires when checked to and has a ridiculously high aggression factor. All those things combined could make this player very frustrating to have on your left. So what range of hands should you open from the small blind with this opponent in the big blind?

Small Blind Versus LAG Loose-aggressive players in the big blind can make your life difficult when you are in the small blind. They will use their position to resteal pots preflop by three-betting, and postflop by calling or floating. Because you tightened up your opening range, you can loosen up your range for continuing versus three-bets. This means you can four-bet lighter and call three-bets lighter. Isolating Limpers Frequent limping preflop is a sign of a weak, inexperienced player.

By default, you should not overlimp. When you decide to play a hand, just raise. There are exceptions to this however. As a caveat, you are better off folding the bottom of your range versus two short-stackers since one of the players is likely to limp-raise you all-in preflop.

You want him to see a flop with you and limping often means he will. Everyone else folds and the villain calls. I call again. Analysis: Preflop is a standard isolation play. On the flop, when the villain leads into me for around half pot, I call for value. I am likely so far ahead of him on this dry flop that flatting is the best option. If he led for less than half pot, I would raise to get value now and to get a free showdown in position. Since he leads for around two-thirds pot, I call again.

On the river I face a half pot-sized bet. Although a backdoor flush draw got there, all the other obvious draws missed. So I call to show down my hand. The action folds around to MP1 who calls. Analysis: Again, preflop is standard. While I would often fire this flop for value against most players, betting versus this player with my read was a mistake. This would allow my opponent to take a stab with the majority of his range on the turn which I would happily call down versus.

Analysis: The key to this hand is stack sizes since we are roughly big blinds deep. A preflop raise is necessary in order to win a large pot should I hit my set and the player decides to passively call me down postflop. A raise is also necessary if I want to go to the flop heads up. The odds of winning the hand are much higher versus one player than they are versus two.

However, I. Fundamental Four: Play Solid 59 would raise all pocket pairs in this situation. Postflop, I stab at the dry, kinghigh flop and take it down. MP1 calls. Analysis: Given my position and these stack sizes, I need to start building a pot preflop in order to win a big pot postflop.

Therefore, preflop is another standard spot to isolate. I c-bet on the flop since I am unlikely to show down a winning hand by the river and because the villain has shown that he can fold to c-bets. Even though the flop is fairly connected, I still hope to fold out hands which have decent equity against me. The turn brings an ace, which is often a good card to double barrel. On this flop however, the villain will likely have either a made hand or a draw and neither is folding to a turn bet.

Moreover, betting the turn could pressure me into barrelling the river. Doing so would build a large pot with no reads and limited equity. That is something I want to avoid. Once the flush and the straight draws complete on the river and my opponent leads, I have no reason to believe that my hand is good so I simply fold.

Analysis: On this flop, I have two things going for me: 1. A great flop texture to c-bet. A good amount of equity with which to double barrel the turn any spade, seven, or jack which accounts for one-third of the deck. On the flop, I only bet one-third pot since I expect both players to continue with nines or better and to fold worse. I am not worried about consistent bet sizing versus these opponents since they both seem weak. Both opponents fold and I take down the pot.

Analysis: In terms of isolating with suited hands, J8s is toward the bottom of my range. On the button however, it is strong enough to play. On the flop, MP1 leads for the minimum. I raise for two reasons:. Fundamental Four: Play Solid 61 1. The big blind will be out of position facing a bet albeit a small one and a raise. This will force him to dump all his marginal holdings. For example, how excited is he about 67s in this situation? I do have position and some equity if called by either player.

Calling a Raise Most people call too much preflop. Some players do it because they get bored or impatient. Some players find themselves on tilt and just look to flop anything and splash around. A lot of players simply like speculating and seeing flops. But without a valid reason to call, you are just throwing money away. Here are good reasons to call a raise. However, it plays poorly versus their four-bets or in spots in which they call your three-bet.

When faced with a three-bet, he will likely fold weaker kings and queens and thus go to the flop with a range which dominates KQo. Here are some examples from my Challenge where I called preflop. Both blinds call. Analysis: Preflop is a great spot to call with my tens because: 1.

The cutoff has reasonable stats over a small sample size. Therefore, I should treat him as a competent player who is still mostly an unknown. Versus the cutoff, I am big blinds deep. There is a 40 big blind stack who seems like a weaker player in the big blind. Postflop, once the Small Blind fires a big bet and the Big Blind calls, it is an easy fold with my third pair and weak flush draw. These two factors make calling AKs in position a textbook play. Postflop, once everyone checks to me, I bet my hand for value and take it down.

Everyone else folds. Analysis: Looking ahead, there are two LAG players in the blinds. Even if the LAGs choose not to squeeze and to flat instead, I will be in position with a hand which crushes their calling ranges. No such luck getting squeezed as I go to the flop heads up versus MP2. The preflop raiser bets and I call. On the turn, once he checks to me, I bet for value and take down the pot.

Analysis: When the cutoff limps and the button raises a small amount, I assume that the cutoff will not back-raise based on his stats. Additionally, since both players have medium sized stacks and suboptimal preflop stats, I can assume they will make postflop mistakes such as stacking off too lightly if I hit my set. Postflop, I miss completely and just give up. This chapter takes a closer look at how to handle preflop aggression as well as how to dish it out. Three-Betting There are three main reasons to three-bet a single raiser.

You want to get value from worse hands. This means that the villain will either call your three-bet or will four-bet you with a weaker range. Keep in mind that there are times in which you three-bet for value but then fold to a four-bet. This is usually versus players who open loosely and often call three-bets but seldom four-bet. For example, say that you are up against a player who will call three-bets with lots of pocket pairs, weak kings, and weak queens, but will four-bet KK, AA, and AK.

In this case, three-betting KQ but then folding should you be four-bet, is the right play. Your opponent is likely to fold and you can win some blinds. There is also a psychological, metagame effect from winning pots without showing down your hand. The more you do it, the more skeptical your opponents become, which increases their likelihood of calling you down light.

This is the power of developing an image through frequent aggression. It often results in you getting paid off at some point in the future when you hold a legitimate hand. You want to isolate yourself with a fish while not giving other good players incentive to squeeze. The three-bet size doesn't have to be large. Sometimes you can even three-bet to 2. Any player that now wants to enter the pot knows that they are not closing the action. This can serve as a strong deterrent to them continuing.

It is important to know why you are three-betting, so that if you face a four-bet, you know how to proceed. Always remember that poker without a plan is bad poker. Here are some general guidelines to consider before three-betting. It will be easier for you to play profitably if you get called. Here are some hands which focus on all these points from my Challenge. Villain folds and I take the pot. Analysis: I pick up a premium hand versus a LAG and three-bet for value.

It's important to do this since I am big blinds deep. Postflop, I bet three streets for value. Everyone, including MP2, folds and I take down the pot. I have position and blockers, as well as a value hand versus his overall calling range. It is also important to look at who is still left to act in this situation.

If there are weaker players in the blinds, I would prefer calling with a high, suited ace. In this case the blinds were both regulars, so calling would likely only invite a squeeze. If faced with a four-bet, I can comfortably fold. I fold. Analysis: I misplayed this hand. A 50 big blind stack playing very tight opens from MP3. I have a hand that has a lot of value facing his opening range, but does poorly versus his four-betting range.

Also, with an active player behind, I can induce a squeeze and see how the original raiser reacts. If I flat and take a flop, I have position with a hand that will be easy to play. I waste this advantage with my three-bet however. Once the villain four-bets, I simply have to fold. MP3 calls. Villain calls. The villain checks behind. Since I have a strong hand and will be out of position postflop, I want to take the initiative by three-betting.

I flop a gutshot with an overcard and elect to c-bet. This folds out low and mid pocket pairs as well as random air. These are hands which might stab if I check or which could improve on the turn. On the river, I check and call a small bet with second pair, top kicker. Given how the hand played out and seeing how the flush draw missed, I am willing to pay off a king, or a better hand, if he has it. Looking back, there might have been value in betting, hoping to get paid off by a ten or by a weaker queen QJ and QT come to mind.

But at the time, I felt that there was more value in checking. He will either fold or four-bet facing my three-bet. He is opening from the button, a position from which I expect his opening range to be the widest. With the ace blocker, I resteal. Unfortunately, I get four-bet and have to fold.

If he does end up calling, my hand is playable postflop. If this villain opened from an earlier position, I would have simply folded. If he opened from the small blind, I would have flatted in position. Everyone folds and I take down the pot. Analysis: With the weaker player limping in MP3, I expect a regular with competent stats to be isolating with a wide range.

I therefore expect to have high fold equity when I three-bet the regular, who has shown he will fold to three-bets. If the original limper calls my three-bet I will have position, initiative, and equity with a hand that can flop a solid pair with a decent kicker or a good draw. Squeezing A squeeze occurs when one player raises, one or more additional players call, then a third player reraises to "squeeze" everyone out of the pot.

The beauty of this play is that the other players are put to a test. Each has to decide whether to call, reraise, or fold. If they want to continue with the hand, they have to do so in the face of heavy strength and aggression. It is a very powerful play. The dynamics behind profitable squeezing opportunities are different than those involved in three-betting a single opponent. For starters, most players these days are aware that squeezing is happening more. Therefore, both the initial raiser and the caller s are more likely to play back at you by four-betting or by calling.

Here are the main points to keep in mind before squeezing. You also need to consider what you plan to do if you face a four-bet or see a flop. Your target can be either the opening raiser or the caller. Just make sure you identify them early and select an appropriate range of hands with which to squeeze them.

For the examples in this section, I will focus mostly on squeezing with nonpremium hands and the dynamics behind my decision making. The blinds and MP2 fold and MP3 calls. MP3 checks and I check behind. He is likely to call with dominated hands and random garbage against which my high broadway cards will play very well in position.

I expect MP3 to have mostly pocket pairs when flatting the raise. Therefore even if he calls, I can c-bet a lot of flops to take the pot away. I mostly expect him to fold to a three-bet though. I am unconcerned about betting for balance, something I almost never do at the micros. The turn is the best card in the deck for me and MP3 leads weakly. If my opponent has air, he is unlikely to fire again on the river. However, if he has any piece of the board, the price of a small raise should prove hard to resist and I expect him to continue.

I do not like how I let him see a river so cheaply, on his terms. On the river, once he checks, I fire a value bet and villain folds. Both villains fold and I take down the pot. Since the Cutoff is a nit, I expect him to have mostly pocket pairs and some other weak hands in his flatting range.

Also, since both players have competent stats, I expect them to play fairly straightforward at least until I see differently. If called, a suited ace will play well postflop versus their calling ranges. If I face a four-bet, it is an easy fold.

Everyone checks to me and I check back. I call as does the SB. MP1 calls and I fold. Analysis: Preflop I am targeting MP1, the short-stacked player who seemingly doesn't like to fold. Ideally, he would come over the top of my squeeze and I can play for stacks with my AK. When the small blind calls however, I am concerned. He should be aware that MP1 is short-stacked and is likely to shove the rest of his chips in. Given how tight he is preflop, the small blind's range should be very strong.

The flop is very connected and even though I have a gutshot, c-betting versus three players is suicidal. It is also likely that the small blind has queens or better here. On the turn, the small blind checks. MP1 bets small.

With my gutshot, two overs, and flush draw, I call in position. If the small blind were to raise here, I would quickly fold. I prefer just calling the turn rather than raising to isolate MP1, especially since I am still not sure if the small blind is going to fold. If it was just myself and MP1 on the flop or on the turn, I would have gladly gotten the money in on either street. His preflop and flop play are fine, but he should lead the turn. The board is starting to get scary and he needs to protect his hand and to build a pot.

MP2 calls and MP3 folds. I check and villain checks back. Analysis: I am targeting both players preflop. MP2 is playing loosely and has called 6 of the 7 three-bets he has faced. I expect him to continue with lots of hands which don't fare well versus my tens.

MP3 is a weak player with loose stats and 60 big blinds. He is another player whose range isn't particularly strong versus tens. I expect to face a lot of resistance on this type of flop and I would not be happy facing a raise were I to c-bet. So I decide to pot control and to check and call if MP2 decides to fire. Also, my hand would look very strong betting this flop since I perceive my fold equity to be low. Surprisingly, MP2 checks back. At this point I am putting him on some sort of low pocket pair.

I put out a blocker bet on the turn to get some value but he folds. I am happy to isolate him preflop in position with jacks. Once he four-bets, my jacks are crushed, and I fold. In this situation, calling preflop instead of three-betting is fine once in a while. However, jacks don't play optimally versus multiple opponents, especially if you are out of position to one of the players.

Three-betting is the better play, even if it means having to fold occasionally to a four-bet. This hand illustrates an important lesson. Despite having excellent conditions for a squeeze, I had to give up on the hand and folded. Sometimes plays just don't work as you hoped and that's OK. It is important to avoid being results driven. Rather than focusing on the success or the failure of a play, concentrate on whether it was a good spot to attempt the play to begin with.

That is how a good poker player thinks about the game. Calling a Three-Bet Most players play poorly when faced with a three-bet. They either call or fold for the wrong reasons. There are four major reasons to call a three-bet.

You have good implied odds. You also have the type of hand that could win you a big pot if you hit. These types of hands include pocket pairs which can flop sets and suited connectors or one-gappers which can hit trips as well as straight or flush draws.

Pocket pairs are the easiest to play postflop if you are strictly setmining. So what constitutes good implied odds? Stack sizes. A benchmark when looking to play a speculative hand with limited reads is 20 to 1. A specific read on the villain. You should consider taking less than 20 to 1 if you know that the villain has a very strong three-betting range and is likely to pay you off when you hit your hand. So if they have a. You are trapping. This is normally done with very strong made hands like kings and aces versus opponents with really loose three-betting ranges who are likely to fold to four-bets.

You face a min three-bet giving you 20 to 1 or better odds and you could potentially show your hand down cheaply. Without a specific read, your plan in this scenario is to call one bet if you hit and often to give up unimproved on later streets. A player is getting out of line with their three-betting. In this scenario, you should be looking to just flop a pair or a draw and get value. Example: You notice that an opponent is three-betting a wide range of Ax and Kx hands along with random suited junk hands.

In this case, flatting a three-bet in position with hands like QTs and KJo should be more profitable than four-betting them or folding them. I should note that this is an area where many micro and small stakes players exhibit big leaks. They make false assumptions about just how frequently they are being three-bet by a specific villain and call too loosely with hands that are too marginal.

Here are seven hand examples from my Challenge in which I called a preflop three-bet. The BB folds and I call. My opponent checks again. Analysis: I open from early position and face a three-bet from a player in the blinds with reasonable preflop stats. The problem with four-betting in this situation is that I telegraph the strength of my hand and give my opponent an opportunity to fold everything but kings and aces.

Moreover, I will likely get postflop action from those hands anyway. Postflop, I sometimes prefer raising this type of flop texture. Raising can often induce shoves by overpairs while ensuring that my action isn't killed by a scare card. In this specific example, a seven, a heart, or an ace could have potentially shut down my opponent.

But in this case, my opponent seemed determined to call down even though the board ran out very poorly for his hand. Three-Betting and Beyond 77 Analysis: The key to this hand is the button who overcalls. Without him calling, I likely have to fold my hand. While a decent hand, eights are a fairly standard fold big blinds deep when faced with a three-bet from an aggressive player.

Moreover, I need to consider that I am out of position and am only getting 14 to 1 odds. This is not nearly enough versus a player with a wide preflop range that won't often pay me off if I hit my hand. When the button calls however, good things happen. When I check to the original raiser, I get to see his action and the action of the preflop overcaller before having to act. So in a way, I am last to reveal anything about my hand on the flop. I have the benefit of seeing my opponents define their hands before I make any decisions.

These three things take away the two big advantages that a three-bettor would have were we just heads up: weak implied odds for me and absolute position for him. The BB folds and I fold as well. Analysis: This villain is tight. More importantly however, he starts with an 80 big blind stack. With his three-bet to 12 big blinds, I am given around 9 to 1 implied odds.

This is simply not enough to speculate, so I make the disciplined fold. Analysis: Out of position to an aggressive, fully-stacked, relatively unknown villain, AJo would normally be a fold. However, I decide to call the minraise getting great odds to try to hit a pair.

Postflop, I miss completely and chuckle as the villain overbet shoves the flop as a c-bet. If I had hit an ace or a jack and the villain shoved, my decision to call would be based on my risk tolerance and on the state of my bankroll. Analysis: Villain is an unknown. But based on his stack size, stats up to this point, and bet sizing, I assume he is a weak player.

Preflop, I am getting implied odds of Three-Betting and Beyond 79 The flop is an easy call with my pair and backdoor draws. Given the low stack-to-pot ratio, I value bet small to induce action once I hit my trips on the turn. He folds and I win the hand. The SB once again checks and I follow suit. Analysis: Once again, stack sizes are key to this hand. Even if the button folds after I call, I am still getting 38 to 1 to continue.

After I miss postflop, I just give up. A large portion of the time, you are going to run into a check-call or a check-raise. When a player checks this type of board texture after three-betting preflop, it is almost never to check-fold. I minraise, he shoves, and I call. Analysis: In this hand, the villain is playing very loosely and giving me a great price to play my hand in position.

In addition, he begins the hand with around 42 big blinds. I see limited value in four-betting preflop. There is no reason to gamble when I can take a flop in position and get my money in with better equity should I hit the flop. The flop is gin for me in this situation. He obliges me with a shove and I run into the top of his range.

The combination of stack sizes, his preflop raise size, his loose and aggressive preflop stats, and the strength of my hand made this an easy preflop call and an easy postflop stack-off. Four-Betting There are two main reasons to four-bet preflop. For value. You have a strong hand with which you want to build a pot.

You are happy to get all the money in preflop versus the three-bettor. If you plan to fold to a five-bet, your four-bet is a bluff. You should have a specific read that the following are both true about the villain: A. He is three-betting with a range that includes a lot of weak hands.

He is likely to fold to a four-bet. This needs to be emphasized. There are players who three-bet a very wide and a very weak range with hands like K9o but also like calling four-bets. Don't four-bet these players lightly. Three-Betting and Beyond 81 As I discussed in the previous section on three-betting, it is important to be able to identify if your four-bet is for value or a bluff.

It is also important not to be result oriented after you make your decision. Sizing Your Four-Bet Given the typical scenario of big blind stacks, a 3 to 3. You want to bet the minimum that forces your opponent to either shove or fold and 25 big blinds accomplishes this. If you make it any more, your bluffs start becoming too expensive. If you make it any less, you give your opponents good odds to flat call your four-bet.

As mentioned above, versus unknowns or known calling stations, you should not be four-bet bluffing. So feel free to size your four-bets larger for value against them. As these reasons increase however, you should be more willing to put in a four-bet bluff. Here are some hand examples taken from my database in which I four-bet. Villain checks. Analysis: I open from the hijack and face a three-bet from a LAG in the small blind.

I opened for pot preflop and four-bet to 26 big blinds versus his 9 big blind three-bet. Postflop, my hand plays itself. Given the low stack-to-pot ratio, I bet small to get value or to induce action from worse and the villain complies. Analysis: I open and get cold called by a nit and an unknown. Both are shortstackers and face a large three-bet squeeze by an active unknown with 99 big blinds. Because of the huge three-bet size, I four-bet to the smallest amount.

Three-Betting and Beyond 83 possible which, at 35 big blinds, still commits me. This allows any of the players to call or to shove while leaving open a window of perceived fold equity.

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Bitcoin betting on basketball. I currently live in Athens, Georgia with my wife Katy. Acknowledgements As you can imagine, writing a book takes a lot of hard work and is far from an independent endeavor. This book could not have happened without the help of others.

I would like to thank people chronologically, since all had an instrumental role in making it a reality. Max has always been there for me when I needed help with any computer software or hardware. This has proved invaluable over the years.

The names are too many to list, but I appreciate all of you. Next, I would like to thank Brian Rue, Matt Doran, Pawel Ulrik, and Mehmet Ogan for discussing poker strategy with me in detail over the years and for forcing me to think more deeply about my own game. I especially appreciate all the work Brian did in discussing, and in helping me select, many of the hand histories in this book.

I also appreciate Tommy Angelo and Jared Tendler for allowing me to use selected sections from their excellent books. I know the readers will appreciate it as well. Finally, I am grateful for my opportunity to work with Lee Przytula. Simply stated, Lee is brilliant and has been the brains behind the design and the layout of this book and its accompanying website. I am thankful for all the feedback and the advice he has given me over the years.

Exactly days later, I met my goal see figure Ironically, I reached my objective the day before Black Friday. I wrote this book to serve as a foundation for how this can be replicated, and in some cases, done even faster and better. Anyone can become a winning poker player. As I listen to students and read the forums, it becomes abundantly clear that most people are focused on the wrong things. I see hands posted on the forums which show players making river calls with queen-high, or floating with air for two streets, in order to bluff-shove all-in on the river to get a fold.

Building a bankroll at your current stakes. Moving up in stakes and repeating goal 1. I want to help you execute the above process by outlining seven fundamentals which are critical to having long-term success in poker. My hope is that this book serves as a springboard to help you make more money at your current limit before moving up to the next one and beyond. It is important to note that although my play in the Challenge was strictly at the full ring Rush tables, the lessons in this book carry over to non-Rush games as well as to six-max games.

I have identified seven key areas essential to being a successful long-term winner in poker regardless of stake, site, or format. In this book, I will outline those seven areas while providing many examples from my play at 10NL and at 25NL. That said, there are plenty of reasons why most people are destined to be long-term losers. Accept Variance. Luck plays. Introduction 3 a significant role in poker.

Manage Your Bankroll. This is your main line of defense against going broke. If you are losing, bankroll management forces you to eventually drop down in stakes. It is also serves as a motivator for moving up. If you are winning, start taking shots at the next level. Develop Reads. It is important to understand both your HUD and how stats converge. Identify different opponent types and figure out the proper strategy adjustments to make against them at the tables.

Play Solid. Know why certain plays will win you money in the long run and why others will not. None of the ideas discussed in this section should come as a major surprise. Yet it is amazing how often I observe seemingly solid players making huge fundamental errors at the tables. Stay on Your A-Game. There is a big difference between knowing the right play and actually making the right play. To be a winning player, you need to control tilt and to play your A-game over long periods of time.

For many of you, this will be a work-in-progress. Put in the Hours. Mastery is achieved through experience. There is no substitute for actual work at and away from the tables. Remain a Student. Resist falling into complacency. It happens so easily with poker. Evaluate your game continually, identify which areas give you trouble, and work hard to improve them. Study players that you respect and use their success as motivation.

If you master these seven areas, you will be a winning poker player in the long-term. I realize that is much easier said than done. Still, my goal is to make this process as easy as possible for you. Is this Book for You? This book is not for everyone see table If you are already crushing medium stakes games at a high level, it is unlikely that this book will offer much additional insight.

I have focused on making the advice in this book simple to comprehend by breaking down the fundamental reasons for taking different actions. I believe. You are my main target audience. You are currently playing lower stakes and not crushing your limit. This book can be the catalyst to help you make the jump. You are playing small stakes but clearly have some leaks in your game. This book could help you refocus on the fundamentals of winning poker.

Probably Not. You are already playing small stakes or higher. You are likely already familiar with most of the information in this book. Poker is a very complicated game. It would be impossible to cover all the different plays and all the different scenarios that a player might face over the course of a million hands. Nonetheless, I have included what I believe are the most common and the most important situations. Finally, the chapter about playing your A-game was taken directly from books I have read and conversations I have had with Tommy Angelo and Jared Tendler.

They are the undisputed authorities on the mental side of poker. Both offer a common sense approach to the mental game and explain their concepts in ways that are easily grasped. I loved the full ring Rush poker games and was able to four-table them with relative ease. Thus, I based my Challenge around them. I also felt, and still do, that full ring is a better starting place for someone looking to methodically build their bankroll. A lot. In the end, poker is poker.

Fundamentally, it is still a game about making reads and making plays based on those reads. Bankroll management is the same. Focusing on your A-game is the same. Reviewing your sessions. Introduction 5 is the same. Knowing when to bet and when to give up based on constructed ranges is universal across both formats. So what are the main differences between full ring and six-max? Good players tend to open strong ranges preflop from those seats and that affects how hands play out postflop.

Other stats vary slightly as well. I would not recommend this book to someone who wanted to learn heads up play. Facing a single opponent at the poker table creates a completely different dynamic that is worlds apart from full ring and six-max. Understanding and accepting swings as a normal aspect of poker is important for any winning player. This understanding will serve as the foundation for discussing bankroll management in the next section. The title. He is known as being creative, consistent, and tough.

He is definitely a shark at the tables. What I want you to focus on is the overall shape of the graph. Any poker player would love to have a graph that looks similar! So how did Vinivici do in terms of these metrics? Understanding Variance How would you feel if you went on a 20 buy-in downswing? Would you begin to question your game? Would you feel like you were a bad player? While you could very well be a losing player, your results could also be a function of variance. Before getting started, I want to emphasize an important point: The higher your win rate is at a given level, the less likely you are to experience a large downswing or a long break-even stretch.

My parameters will be a 40, hand sample over 1, trials the maximum allowed with a standard deviation of The one variable that will change is win rate. I chose 40, hands because that is the number I averaged per month throughout my Challenge. I chose a standard deviation of 55 based on my own sample during that time. As a point of reference, take a look at my win rate and the standard deviation see figure I want to figure out what kind of variance these players should expect over a 40, hand sample.

It is important to note that the graphs produced in the next few pages are not unique. If you use my exact parameters, you should expect very similar results. However, the key points I am trying to illustrate should translate regardless of the numbers you use. Fundamental One: Accept Variance 11 The longest possible break-even stretch is right around 40, hands2. So this marginal winner is as likely as he is unlikely to experience a fairly significant break-even stretch. Interestingly, the largest possible downswing for this player decreases to around 20 buy-ins.

This is a big improvement. The sizes of possible downswings are also slightly better. Even for this player, his largest statistically possible downswing is around 20 buy-ins. The frequencies are better though. His largest possible break-even stretch is right around 39, hands. The worst case scenario for all three players—the marginal winner, the solid winner, and the crusher—was similar: a downswing of more than 20 buy-ins and a 40, hand break-even stretch. A high win rate does lower the possibility of a large downswing or a long break-even stretch.

So one of the best ways to protect against possible variance is to improve your win rate. This is also one of the key arguments for playing fewer tables. It will give you more time to make decisions and it will almost always increase your win rate. Now that I have established that even the best players can experience long break-even stretches and big downswings, I want to discuss how to tell if the downswing or the break-even stretch you are experiencing is within normal variance for a winning player or is the result of bad play.

Variance and Losing So how can you tell if you are a losing player or an unlucky player? There are a couple of basic metrics you can use to begin to answer that question: 1. Examine Large Pots. Bad Play. Based on all available information, you overplayed or misplayed the hand.

Bad Luck. You played the hand optimally. Bad Beat. You got it in good but lost. If most of the pots are due to bad play, then you have some leaks in your game that you need to work on. The more you play, the more you will be able to identify which hands fall into which category. Conversely, you should also look at your winners the same way. Are you winning most of your big pots by playing well, coolering people, or sucking out?

Examine Basic Tendencies. You can look at your overall stats and see if you are playing the basic winning poker style that I discuss in chapter 5, Play Solid. If you are consistently making mistakes in one or more of the areas that I emphasize in that chapter, then make the necessary corrections.

Just continue to grind and wait for variance to even out. Here are some actual hand examples from my Challenge that can be classified under bad play, bad luck, or bad beat. Villain flat calls from MP1 and everyone else folds. Analysis: My opponent is a complete unknown who started the hand with 91 big blinds. On this draw-heavy flop, I perceive his huge raise as a draw that is trying to get me to fold.

I decide that there are plenty of worse hands he would raise here both for value and as a semi-bluff. Being out of position, I decide to shove. I classify this as a bad beat. All the limpers fold and the villain calls. Analysis: This player seems to be a looser regular. Post flop I bet small using all three streets to get the money in and to perhaps induce a shove at some point.

He ended up rivering a two-outer. Nevertheless, I am confident that the results would have been the same had I bet bigger on the flop or on the turn. Even though I got it in with no equity, I still classify this as a bad beat. The BB and MP1 both call. The BB calls and MP1 folds. Analysis: This villain is definitely a LAG but I have no reason to believe he gets out of line post flop. On the turn, there are a number of value hands he could have which crush me.

Specifically 66, 55, and gutshots that got there 73, 78, His play is consistent with all those hands. The turn should be a standard bet-fold. I classify this as a bad play. Still, being out of position, I think three-betting here is better than flatting.

I think with aces he would likely want to re-isolate to avoid seeing a flop three-handed and getting sucked out on. I shove and run into aces. However, in this hand it was. I definitely classify this example as bad luck. Analysis: Preflop, I decide to squeeze the loose, passive player with the shortstacker opening. When the Big Blind puts in a committing four-bet with three players still left to act, his hand is incredibly strong.

Versus that range, my kings are a dog and I should just fold. I definitely think I overplayed my kings in this example. I classify this hand as a bad play. Win Rate How many hands of poker do you need to play before you can accurately gauge your win rate? There is no good answer for this. To be honest, most discussions of specific win rates are fairly academic.

Your game should always be evolving, so it is unlikely that you are the same player that you were , hands ago. Thus, whatever win rate you have over the last x number of hands is a reflection of the poker player you were, not of the poker player you are. Just focus on honestly identifying areas in your game that need work and actively working to improve them. To be successful, most players first need to be introduced to some guidelines. Here is the basic model. This can come from a combination of table winnings, rakeback, and bonuses.

In many ways, it really is that simple. Here is how I managed my bankroll during my Challenge. The totals include table winnings, rakeback, and bonuses. I spent 46 hours and 47, hands at this level. I spent 60 hours and 65, hands at this level. I was prepared to take a 5 buy-in shot at this level. I spent 67 hours and 70, hands at this level. I was prepared to take a 7 buy-in shot at this level. I spent 97 hours and 99, hands at this level. I was prepared to take a 10 buy-in shot at this level.

As I moved up in stakes, I fully expected my win rate to decrease and my variance to increase. So on my way up I braced for the swings by requiring a larger number of initial buy-ins. I also allowed myself a larger number of buy-ins for my shot-taking. This was my bankroll safety net and it served me well. Feel free to follow my model or to modify it to suit your needs. For those who wish to cash out, simply account for your cash out amount and adjust your plan accordingly.

Range of Limits During my challenge, I played all my hands at one limit before moving up to the next level. In the past however, I have kept my options open and have played a range of limits. I would base my decision on what kind of games were running, where I perceived the fish to be playing, and how I was feeling. There are plenty of heads up players who sit at tables ranging from NL to NL across different sites, waiting to see what kind of action they get.

This works both for full ring and for six-max. If you play on PokerStars, the liquidity of games is seldom an issue. On the other hand, if you are playing on the Merge network, liquidity can definitely become an issue. Further, different times of the day offer a higher percentage of weaker players and thus an incentive to play higher.

That is assuming your bankroll allows for it of course. This is a positive since labels have the potential to consciously or to subconsciously limit your full potential. Varying Your Buy-In Another way to manage your bankroll is by adjusting your buy-in amount. This works especially well when you are moving up to a new limit.

If you move up to 50NL and buy in with the standard big blinds, you will have 20 buy-ins for that limit. Another option is to buy in for 75 big blinds. There are multiple advantages to this. There is often a necessary adjustment period to acclimate yourself with winning and losing bigger pots. Lowering your buy-in amount eases the process. As a result, you will face fewer difficult river decisions, which is good when you are playing a new limit with few reads.

One of my friends was having a hard time moving up from 25NL to 50NL. He was doing very well at 25NL but was breaking even at 50NL. I checked his stats and noticed he was playing much more passively and fit-or-fold at 50NL. After studying his database a bit more, we figured out that he had solid reads on the.

But he lacked those reads at 50NL. This affected him mentally and resulted in him playing passive and scared. The combination of those two facts made him the perfect candidate for a smaller buy-in. Making that adjustment allowed him to play with more confidence. Within just a few weeks he was playing his normal game at 50NL with big blinds. Making good reads and acting on them is a characteristic of all great players. I debated whether the next chapter, Play Solid, should precede this one.

But after much thought, I decided that a major component of solid play is being able to develop reads and to make plays based on them. Very few hands are played in a true vacuum and treating the strategy in the next chapter that way would be intellectually dishonest. HUD Stats Convergence You will be able to make better decisions against a player the more hands you have on them. In this section, I picked out three players and analyzed how their stats converged as the number of hands I collected on them increased.

I would like you to study the different players and to think about what you can deduce from their stats after 20, 50, , , , , and hands. I will finish each example with some basic strategies for dealing with each player. Player A I played a total of hands versus this opponent. Table represents a snapshot of his stats as they evolved. In terms of his flop and his turn play, you are still in the dark.

He still seems passive as evidenced by his low Aggression Factor 0. He steals frequently and likes to see flops. How should you approach this player? He likes to call three-bets and has a standard Fold to Flop C-Bet percentage.

Get value if you hit and give up if you completely miss. Passive players usually raise with a very nutted range. These are gold nuggets that will tell you much more about his tendencies than his stats alone. At this point, you can assume that this player is likely a nit. Since he is playing such a tight range preflop, you can expect him to have strong hands on many flops. How do you approach this player? He seldom steals and plays a tight range that consists of mostly premium hands.

You are very likely to get paid off if you hit your set. If he is on your direct left, open anything from the cutoff that you would ordinarily open from the button. He does have a very low three-bet percentage, but everything else is standard.

He seems tight preflop, but generally passive and cautious postflop. So be selective in your c-betting postflop. How Many Hands do You Need? Compared to a LAG or a loose-passive player, you will need a lot more hands on a nit to know how often he c-bets postflop. It is important to examine the stats in the context of everything else you know. It is important to note just how tight this player is playing.

Also, the sample size for his postflop play as the preflop raiser is only five. Such few hands does not provide nearly enough information to draw any definite conclusions. If you really want to develop specific reads on a particular opponent, go over the hands that they take to showdown.

The combination of their showdown hands and their HUD stats should start to paint a clear picture of a player. Note Taking Note taking is essential if you want the ability to make specific reads on an opponent. However, writing out hands takes time and can be very distracting when trying to multi-table.

Therefore, it is important to develop a shorthand system for taking notes that works for you. Here are three key points to keep in mind when taking a note: 1. Your note should be both factual and detailed. Take note of hands which stand out from what you would consider standard. This note is basically worthless. On the other hand, this note is much more useful. I now know that this player, as the preflop raiser, is capable of firing large barrels with air with no regard for flop texture.

I also know that he is unlikely to pull the trigger on the river. Therefore, I should be ready to call down light on flops and on turns if I ever decide to take a stand. If he does bet the river however, I need to be wary. Next I will analyze some hands from each of the three players that went to showdown. Player A calls and the BTN folds. Player A calls again. What it Tells Me: This villain plays draws passively.

A small raise on a later street likely means he is very strong. He will also play a wide range preflop, hoping to hit. How to Exploit: If I hit a big hand, I should fire a pot-sized bet on the flop and on the turn. With medium strength hands, I can just bet out one-third pot or smaller and fold to aggression—even small aggression when a draw completes. How to Exploit: This further confirms my conclusions in the analysis of hand one. A good strategy versus this opponent is to fire pot-sized bets if you hit your hand and to go for big value.

The blinds fold. SS CO. Bet small on 4 T. On the other hand, this hand was played versus a short-stacker. People tend to play differently versus short-stacked players and thus this hand might not offer much insight into how Player B will play against a fully-stacked opponent. How to Exploit: This type of villain likes controlling the size of the pot. This is affirmed by a quick look at some of his other hands where he likes to minraise preflop and to bet small on flops.

He also seems like a player who is willing to call down with hands that are bluff-catchers. So while bluffing him is a bad idea, be willing to fire rivers against him for thin value. Player C calls and the CO folds. What it Tells Me: His range for betting the flop multi-way will be polarized between air and top pair with top kicker or better. He likes to pot control by checking so if he ever starts barreling, watch out.

How to Exploit: If he checks to you or checks behind on a flop, be ready to go for two streets of value with made hands. Another option is to simply empty the clip with your bluffs. The BB checks and MP3 checks back. How to Exploit: As mentioned before, lay on the aggression when he shows weakness. When he starts showing strength, give him respect. Those stats converge quickly and are the basis for any HUD setup.

If you are just starting out, I would only use those five stats. Be sure to bring up the pop-up window to get a sense of the sample size involved and to gauge the validity of the number. The combination of the Flop C-Bet stat and the Fold to Flop C-Bet stat should give you some insight into how robotically your opponent plays post-flop. The larger the sample size, the better. That said, the third line gives me an idea of how often a player is stealing from specific steal positions. Since four-handed poker is very dynamic, this allows me to start building an opening range for each player from those three steal positions.

Finally, the fourth line is the antithesis of the third line. It tells me how often I can steal when my opponent is in the blinds as well as how frequently they three-bet or call when they choose to play back. Doing so will give you a much more complete picture of your opponent. Initial Reads You simply cannot afford to wait until you have a few hundred hands on an opponent to start making some assumptions about their play.

Here are some factors that I look at with little to no hands on a given player. Stack Size This should be the first and the most noticeable read you make on your opponent. The standard buy-in for most regulars is the maximum amount allowed. Most regulars also have the auto top-off and the auto-reload features on. If someone is sitting with a stack less than big blinds, they are likely a recreational and therefore a weaker player. Most of these players will buy in for 50 to 80 big blinds and not top-off until they get stacked.

Number of Tables in Play You can check this information in the lobby of most poker sites. The vast majority of regulars will play multiple tables while most recreational players will play just one or two. It is also important to note that an opponent playing a lot of tables is likely to play a more straight-forward style. Bet Sizing The standard preflop open is 3 to 4 big blinds from early and middle positions and 2.

When three-betting in position, raising to around pot or to just under is standard. Out of position, it is normal to three-bet to around pot or to slightly more. Any deviation from this should be noted unless you have additional reads. The more extreme the deviation, the more likely the opponent plays a losing style.

Timing Tells When it comes to decision making, most good players will act in a consistent, timely manner. Conversely, weaker players will tend to act quickly most of the time. In general, quick actions indicate someone who is fixated on their cards and who knows what they want to do before they face a bet.

The most likely reasons are because they are either on a draw or they want to get to showdown with a marginal made hand. Often when these players take a long time to make a decision, they are strong in their mind and are trying to feign weakness. Basic Player Types I try to classify my opponents figure in one of these categories as quickly as possible.

Based on some of my initial reads, I try to make the initial differentiation between competent and fishy. Then as I play more hands against them, I try to make a secondary classification such as nit, TAG, and so on. Finally, I stay open to the possibility that I classified a player incorrectly and may need to re-classify them. Do not make a habit of making moves on them once they enter a pot. With nits, you can make money by relentlessly stealing their blinds. Each will have their own unique leaks so make an effort to understand them individually.

The majority of TAGs will be fairly competent in most areas. It will take some study to realize in which areas they are not. These players often become victims of my loose three-bets which are designed to punish them for opening too wide preflop. You will have to tighten up your opening ranges when these players are left to act. But the good news is that you can loosen up your three-bet and your four-bet value ranges.

Because they are passive, their Aggression Factor will be less than 1. The key with loose-passives is to isolate them appropriately. Value bet top pair or better over multiple streets and fold all but the strongest hands once they start raising or re-raising you. They should be fairly easy to play against, especially since most play fairly straight-forward postflop.

Aggro Monkey Aggro monkeys can be difficult to play against regardless of your skill level. They are aggressive so they have an Aggression Factor greater than 2. Versus these players, your goal should be to make a pair and to show it down. If you have a weak second pair type hand, try to get to showdown cheaply.

With top pair and a good kicker where top pair is tens or better , you can often play it like you have the nuts. However, when they run up a stack, you can be sure that they leave a table full of tilted players in their wake. Figure shows how the player types were distributed. Figure shows the distribution over 65, hands in my 25NL database for 34 players total. So what should you take away from this? Most regulars tend to be either nits or TAGs.

Most nits are fairly easy to play against and most TAGs will have to be addressed individually. This makes me think that he. Fundamental Three: Develop Reads 39 would check-fold or check-call most turns before he would check-raise. How to Exploit: Anytime you are heads up versus this type of player, c-bet.

With his low Turn C-Bet numbers, he is a prime candidate for being floated on the flop in order to take it away on the turn. If he fires a second bullet however, he is likely to be strong. This opponent also seems like a good candidate for donk betting into given his high Fold Vs C-Bet stat.

But since he is so tight, he likely has a hand worth continuing with on most flops. His Turn C-Bet percentage is reasonable so floating him is not a good idea. His Fold to C-Bet seems low but the sample size is small.

His low Steal percentage is worth mentioning as well. How to Exploit: Fold hands that are likely to be dominated like KQ, AJ when facing a raise from him preflop, steal his blinds, and set mine. He also has a low Fold to Three-Bet over a small sample size. So far, he has defended his blind loosely but folds to four-bets. His low Fold to C- Bet on the flop and the turn in addition to his low Fold to Three-Bet indicates that he is a calling station.

Given his low Fold to Three-Bet percentage so far, three-bet him strictly for value. However, expand your value range versus his late position opens. If, on average, you are involved with players that you have a clear, defined edge on, your win rate will be high and your variance will be low. To determine if you have an edge on another player, you need to: 1.

Identify specific leaks in their game. Know strategies for exploiting those leaks. Here are two examples. Example 1: A player on your immediate right is playing over half of his hands and never folds to three-bets or or to c-bets. He is a classic calling station. This is a big leak because he will often have weak hands postflop and you will be able to get value with better pairs and better kickers in position.

This is a dream situation where you are likely to have a big edge. Thus, you call with many more speculative hands preflop, float him on a wide range of flops, and bet turns. You still have an edge against this player, but it is smaller than the one you have against the big calling station in the previous example. You should look to identify these potential edges as soon as possible when you sit at a new table.

Avoiding Players In addition to figuring out who you want to be involved with the most, you also need to figure out who you want to be involved with the least. Here are two examples of players where your edge is small and you should look to avoid unnecessary confrontation.

Example 1: A loose and aggressive player is sitting on your immediate left big blinds deep. When you open from the cutoff or the small blind, he often three-bets or calls and then floats you postflop. He plays a tight range and often bets multiple streets because he has strong hands.

Just remember that as soon as you sit down at a new table, you should start to make a mental list of who you want to be involved with the most and who you want to be involved with the least. After about three orbits, your list should be rather clear. Examine the 25NL sample table figure and figure out who you want to be involved with the most and the least.

Players to Engage Player F is a loose-passive player. Player B is another loosepassive opponent, but he will have position on you most of the time. In those situations, you should consider tightening up your opening ranges to include more high cards KTo, Q9s, etc and fewer middle and low suited connectors or one-gappers 68s, 45s. Look to make a pair with a good kicker and to get a few streets of value.

Finally, there is Player H. You should look to play strong hands aggressively versus him and to slow play when you hit a monster. Positionally, this type of player is preferred on your right since he would be a major hassle on the left. Those are the three major players that you should be focused on.

Player E is another potential mark since he just sat down with a smaller unorthodox stack. This is usually a sign of weakness or inexperience. However, his position on the opposite side of the table will limit the number of opportunities you have with him. Players to Avoid There are the two main players where I estimate my edge to be the smallest.

Player A has solid preflop stats and has position on me. Therefore, I will give. Player C, the short-stacker, given his stats and stack-size, seems to be playing the standard short-stacking strategy. Everyone else at the table seems fairly standard. This will serve as the foundation for your play. In this chapter, I will cover the following topics:.

Most of your decisions will fall in those three categories. It is also important to learn when you should deviate from the basic strategy I lay out. Opening the Betting There are two main reasons to raise an unopened pot: 1. You hope to steal the blinds. You have a hand which will play profitably facing action. When you open from early position and from middle position, you are less likely to steal the blinds than when you open from late position.

Therefore, the hands you raise should be hands you expect to be profitable postflop. When you open from late position however, your decision should be based more on the people left to act behind you. Thus, because of all the variables, your opening ranges from early position will tend to be much more static than your opening ranges from late position.

I will suggest opening ranges from the different positions, but first I want to address the size of your opening raise. Opening Bet Sizes By default, I like opening to three times the size of the big blind expressed as 3x from early and middle position and sometimes to 2. I also open to 3x from the small blind. Here are some pros and cons that we came up with in regards to different opening sizes. Minraise 2x Pros: The minraise is effective against villains who either fold or three-bet but rarely call facing a steal.

It is also effective versus tight players. Cons: A minraise provides your opponents with incentive to call, especially in position. Minraises fail to build a pot when you have strong hands you are likely to win at showdown or will have position postflop you are likely to win without showdown. Big 3. Big raises also build pots quicker when you hold those premium hands.

Cons: If you fold to a lot of three-bets, big raises give your opponent a greater incentive to three-bet you. They also discourage regulars from playing speculative hands versus you when they are out of position. But this is something you want them to do. Moreover, due to the inflated pot sizes, big raises become expensive quickly if you make a lot of postflop mistakes. Standard 2. They also help build a pot when you have position while managing to keep the pot small enough to continue against a standard three-bet.

Cons: Standard raises are not optimal versus opponents who can be better exploited using a different preflop raise size. Opening Ranges Any winning player will tell that a solid understanding of opening ranges is imperative if you hope to be successful in this game. And although poker is far from black and white, the simple fact is you need to start somewhere. The following tables should serve as a solid foundation upon which you can build.

You are likely to see a flop. You will frequently be out of position. Therefore, you need to open with a range of hands table that will play profitably postflop out of position. If there are some huge whales at your table, all pocket pairs should be profitable. Even if you manage to flop a set, you might suddenly receive lots of action and find yourself on the wrong end of a cooler or so you tell yourself.

I know this range may seem tight and nitty to some of you. But I hope you are reading this book to make money, not to prove to the world that you can own people with 86s. MP1 and MP2 Opening Range Although you should continue playing tight from middle position, you should add a few hands to your default opening range table As a general rule, you are much better off sticking to the tighter opening range shown in the chart above.

If there are big fish still left to act, you can add some speculative suited hands like KTs, QTs, T9s, and some suited aces. You will have an opportunity to open up your range in the next few positions where the chances of stealing blinds and playing heads up pots in position jumps dramatically. Cutoff Opening Range Once you find yourself in the cutoff and the game becomes four handed, you should really start opening up your ranges based on your reads.

If the button is three-betting a lot, then you will need to tighten up. I will discuss strategies that deal with aggressive players who have position on you in the small blind section. In the meantime, table shows a default opening range from the cutoff. The better your reads, the more you should start moving away from static ranges and start adjusting based those reads.

I cannot stress this enough. It is important to loosen up and to tighten up accordingly. Button Opening Range What hands you can open from the button depends entirely on who is in the blinds. Readless, start with this range table Keep in mind that if you get called, your opponent will often go to the flop with a strong range.

So tighten up your c-bets. Your range really depends on your opponents. Button Opening Range Versus a Loose-Passive Here is the range of hands you should open with a loose-passive opponent in the blinds table Button opening range versus a loose-passive. This range will either flop a good pair with good kicker type hand or will give you plenty of cards to barrel with your suited, connected cards. If you happen to hit a high pair, you should look to extract multiple streets of value.

Often, if you miss and the loose-passive has a low Fold to C-Bet, just check back and hope to improve. However, you will also play that range much more aggressively. Use this range as your base table If you face a three-bet, but the villain folds to four-bets, four-bet him with a range of hands that has blockers but limited postflop playability. As shown above, call with kings and aces if the villain has a high Fold to Four-Bet since you will be able to get much more value from them postflop.

With reads, adjust as needed. Here is what you should be focusing on. This type of player will probably be playing level one poker. Additionally, he almost always fires when checked to and has a ridiculously high aggression factor.

All those things combined could make this player very frustrating to have on your left. So what range of hands should you open from the small blind with this opponent in the big blind? Small Blind Versus LAG Loose-aggressive players in the big blind can make your life difficult when you are in the small blind. They will use their position to resteal pots preflop by three-betting, and postflop by calling or floating.

Because you tightened up your opening range, you can loosen up your range for continuing versus three-bets. This means you can four-bet lighter and call three-bets lighter. Isolating Limpers Frequent limping preflop is a sign of a weak, inexperienced player. By default, you should not overlimp. When you decide to play a hand, just raise. There are exceptions to this however. As a caveat, you are better off folding the bottom of your range versus two short-stackers since one of the players is likely to limp-raise you all-in preflop.

You want him to see a flop with you and limping often means he will. Everyone else folds and the villain calls. I call again. Analysis: Preflop is a standard isolation play. On the flop, when the villain leads into me for around half pot, I call for value.

I am likely so far ahead of him on this dry flop that flatting is the best option. If he led for less than half pot, I would raise to get value now and to get a free showdown in position. Since he leads for around two-thirds pot, I call again. On the river I face a half pot-sized bet. Although a backdoor flush draw got there, all the other obvious draws missed.

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You can also enjoy the same great bonuses when signing up for the Bet Casino and Bet Poker, nba bitcoin championship odds Most regulars tend to be either nits or TAGs. Most nits are fairly easy to play against and most TAGs will have to be addressed individually. This makes me think that he. Fundamental Three: Develop Reads 39 would check-fold or check-call most turns before he would check-raise. How to Exploit: Anytime you are heads up versus this type of player, c-bet.

With his low Turn C-Bet numbers, he is a prime candidate for being floated on the flop in order to take it away on the turn. If he fires a second bullet however, he is likely to be strong. This opponent also seems like a good candidate for donk betting into given his high Fold Vs C-Bet stat. But since he is so tight, he likely has a hand worth continuing with on most flops.

His Turn C-Bet percentage is reasonable so floating him is not a good idea. His Fold to C-Bet seems low but the sample size is small. His low Steal percentage is worth mentioning as well. How to Exploit: Fold hands that are likely to be dominated like KQ, AJ when facing a raise from him preflop, steal his blinds, and set mine.

He also has a low Fold to Three-Bet over a small sample size. So far, he has defended his blind loosely but folds to four-bets. His low Fold to C- Bet on the flop and the turn in addition to his low Fold to Three-Bet indicates that he is a calling station. Given his low Fold to Three-Bet percentage so far, three-bet him strictly for value. However, expand your value range versus his late position opens. If, on average, you are involved with players that you have a clear, defined edge on, your win rate will be high and your variance will be low.

To determine if you have an edge on another player, you need to: 1. Identify specific leaks in their game. Know strategies for exploiting those leaks. Here are two examples. Example 1: A player on your immediate right is playing over half of his hands and never folds to three-bets or or to c-bets. He is a classic calling station. This is a big leak because he will often have weak hands postflop and you will be able to get value with better pairs and better kickers in position.

This is a dream situation where you are likely to have a big edge. Thus, you call with many more speculative hands preflop, float him on a wide range of flops, and bet turns. You still have an edge against this player, but it is smaller than the one you have against the big calling station in the previous example.

You should look to identify these potential edges as soon as possible when you sit at a new table. Avoiding Players In addition to figuring out who you want to be involved with the most, you also need to figure out who you want to be involved with the least.

Here are two examples of players where your edge is small and you should look to avoid unnecessary confrontation. Example 1: A loose and aggressive player is sitting on your immediate left big blinds deep. When you open from the cutoff or the small blind, he often three-bets or calls and then floats you postflop.

He plays a tight range and often bets multiple streets because he has strong hands. Just remember that as soon as you sit down at a new table, you should start to make a mental list of who you want to be involved with the most and who you want to be involved with the least. After about three orbits, your list should be rather clear. Examine the 25NL sample table figure and figure out who you want to be involved with the most and the least.

Players to Engage Player F is a loose-passive player. Player B is another loosepassive opponent, but he will have position on you most of the time. In those situations, you should consider tightening up your opening ranges to include more high cards KTo, Q9s, etc and fewer middle and low suited connectors or one-gappers 68s, 45s. Look to make a pair with a good kicker and to get a few streets of value.

Finally, there is Player H. You should look to play strong hands aggressively versus him and to slow play when you hit a monster. Positionally, this type of player is preferred on your right since he would be a major hassle on the left. Those are the three major players that you should be focused on. Player E is another potential mark since he just sat down with a smaller unorthodox stack.

This is usually a sign of weakness or inexperience. However, his position on the opposite side of the table will limit the number of opportunities you have with him. Players to Avoid There are the two main players where I estimate my edge to be the smallest.

Player A has solid preflop stats and has position on me. Therefore, I will give. Player C, the short-stacker, given his stats and stack-size, seems to be playing the standard short-stacking strategy. Everyone else at the table seems fairly standard. This will serve as the foundation for your play. In this chapter, I will cover the following topics:.

Most of your decisions will fall in those three categories. It is also important to learn when you should deviate from the basic strategy I lay out. Opening the Betting There are two main reasons to raise an unopened pot: 1. You hope to steal the blinds. You have a hand which will play profitably facing action. When you open from early position and from middle position, you are less likely to steal the blinds than when you open from late position.

Therefore, the hands you raise should be hands you expect to be profitable postflop. When you open from late position however, your decision should be based more on the people left to act behind you. Thus, because of all the variables, your opening ranges from early position will tend to be much more static than your opening ranges from late position.

I will suggest opening ranges from the different positions, but first I want to address the size of your opening raise. Opening Bet Sizes By default, I like opening to three times the size of the big blind expressed as 3x from early and middle position and sometimes to 2. I also open to 3x from the small blind. Here are some pros and cons that we came up with in regards to different opening sizes.

Minraise 2x Pros: The minraise is effective against villains who either fold or three-bet but rarely call facing a steal. It is also effective versus tight players. Cons: A minraise provides your opponents with incentive to call, especially in position. Minraises fail to build a pot when you have strong hands you are likely to win at showdown or will have position postflop you are likely to win without showdown. Big 3.

Big raises also build pots quicker when you hold those premium hands. Cons: If you fold to a lot of three-bets, big raises give your opponent a greater incentive to three-bet you. They also discourage regulars from playing speculative hands versus you when they are out of position. But this is something you want them to do. Moreover, due to the inflated pot sizes, big raises become expensive quickly if you make a lot of postflop mistakes.

Standard 2. They also help build a pot when you have position while managing to keep the pot small enough to continue against a standard three-bet. Cons: Standard raises are not optimal versus opponents who can be better exploited using a different preflop raise size. Opening Ranges Any winning player will tell that a solid understanding of opening ranges is imperative if you hope to be successful in this game.

And although poker is far from black and white, the simple fact is you need to start somewhere. The following tables should serve as a solid foundation upon which you can build. You are likely to see a flop. You will frequently be out of position.

Therefore, you need to open with a range of hands table that will play profitably postflop out of position. If there are some huge whales at your table, all pocket pairs should be profitable. Even if you manage to flop a set, you might suddenly receive lots of action and find yourself on the wrong end of a cooler or so you tell yourself.

I know this range may seem tight and nitty to some of you. But I hope you are reading this book to make money, not to prove to the world that you can own people with 86s. MP1 and MP2 Opening Range Although you should continue playing tight from middle position, you should add a few hands to your default opening range table As a general rule, you are much better off sticking to the tighter opening range shown in the chart above.

If there are big fish still left to act, you can add some speculative suited hands like KTs, QTs, T9s, and some suited aces. You will have an opportunity to open up your range in the next few positions where the chances of stealing blinds and playing heads up pots in position jumps dramatically. Cutoff Opening Range Once you find yourself in the cutoff and the game becomes four handed, you should really start opening up your ranges based on your reads.

If the button is three-betting a lot, then you will need to tighten up. I will discuss strategies that deal with aggressive players who have position on you in the small blind section. In the meantime, table shows a default opening range from the cutoff.

The better your reads, the more you should start moving away from static ranges and start adjusting based those reads. I cannot stress this enough. It is important to loosen up and to tighten up accordingly.

Button Opening Range What hands you can open from the button depends entirely on who is in the blinds. Readless, start with this range table Keep in mind that if you get called, your opponent will often go to the flop with a strong range. So tighten up your c-bets. Your range really depends on your opponents. Button Opening Range Versus a Loose-Passive Here is the range of hands you should open with a loose-passive opponent in the blinds table Button opening range versus a loose-passive.

This range will either flop a good pair with good kicker type hand or will give you plenty of cards to barrel with your suited, connected cards. If you happen to hit a high pair, you should look to extract multiple streets of value. Often, if you miss and the loose-passive has a low Fold to C-Bet, just check back and hope to improve. However, you will also play that range much more aggressively. Use this range as your base table If you face a three-bet, but the villain folds to four-bets, four-bet him with a range of hands that has blockers but limited postflop playability.

As shown above, call with kings and aces if the villain has a high Fold to Four-Bet since you will be able to get much more value from them postflop. With reads, adjust as needed. Here is what you should be focusing on. This type of player will probably be playing level one poker. Additionally, he almost always fires when checked to and has a ridiculously high aggression factor. All those things combined could make this player very frustrating to have on your left.

So what range of hands should you open from the small blind with this opponent in the big blind? Small Blind Versus LAG Loose-aggressive players in the big blind can make your life difficult when you are in the small blind.

They will use their position to resteal pots preflop by three-betting, and postflop by calling or floating. Because you tightened up your opening range, you can loosen up your range for continuing versus three-bets. This means you can four-bet lighter and call three-bets lighter.

Isolating Limpers Frequent limping preflop is a sign of a weak, inexperienced player. By default, you should not overlimp. When you decide to play a hand, just raise. There are exceptions to this however. As a caveat, you are better off folding the bottom of your range versus two short-stackers since one of the players is likely to limp-raise you all-in preflop. You want him to see a flop with you and limping often means he will.

Everyone else folds and the villain calls. I call again. Analysis: Preflop is a standard isolation play. On the flop, when the villain leads into me for around half pot, I call for value. I am likely so far ahead of him on this dry flop that flatting is the best option. If he led for less than half pot, I would raise to get value now and to get a free showdown in position. Since he leads for around two-thirds pot, I call again. On the river I face a half pot-sized bet.

Although a backdoor flush draw got there, all the other obvious draws missed. So I call to show down my hand. The action folds around to MP1 who calls. Analysis: Again, preflop is standard. While I would often fire this flop for value against most players, betting versus this player with my read was a mistake. This would allow my opponent to take a stab with the majority of his range on the turn which I would happily call down versus.

Analysis: The key to this hand is stack sizes since we are roughly big blinds deep. A preflop raise is necessary in order to win a large pot should I hit my set and the player decides to passively call me down postflop. A raise is also necessary if I want to go to the flop heads up.

The odds of winning the hand are much higher versus one player than they are versus two. However, I. Fundamental Four: Play Solid 59 would raise all pocket pairs in this situation. Postflop, I stab at the dry, kinghigh flop and take it down. MP1 calls. Analysis: Given my position and these stack sizes, I need to start building a pot preflop in order to win a big pot postflop.

Therefore, preflop is another standard spot to isolate. I c-bet on the flop since I am unlikely to show down a winning hand by the river and because the villain has shown that he can fold to c-bets. Even though the flop is fairly connected, I still hope to fold out hands which have decent equity against me. The turn brings an ace, which is often a good card to double barrel. On this flop however, the villain will likely have either a made hand or a draw and neither is folding to a turn bet.

Moreover, betting the turn could pressure me into barrelling the river. Doing so would build a large pot with no reads and limited equity. That is something I want to avoid. Once the flush and the straight draws complete on the river and my opponent leads, I have no reason to believe that my hand is good so I simply fold. Analysis: On this flop, I have two things going for me: 1. A great flop texture to c-bet. A good amount of equity with which to double barrel the turn any spade, seven, or jack which accounts for one-third of the deck.

On the flop, I only bet one-third pot since I expect both players to continue with nines or better and to fold worse. I am not worried about consistent bet sizing versus these opponents since they both seem weak. Both opponents fold and I take down the pot. Analysis: In terms of isolating with suited hands, J8s is toward the bottom of my range. On the button however, it is strong enough to play. On the flop, MP1 leads for the minimum.

I raise for two reasons:. Fundamental Four: Play Solid 61 1. The big blind will be out of position facing a bet albeit a small one and a raise. This will force him to dump all his marginal holdings. For example, how excited is he about 67s in this situation? I do have position and some equity if called by either player.

Calling a Raise Most people call too much preflop. Some players do it because they get bored or impatient. Some players find themselves on tilt and just look to flop anything and splash around. A lot of players simply like speculating and seeing flops. But without a valid reason to call, you are just throwing money away.

Here are good reasons to call a raise. However, it plays poorly versus their four-bets or in spots in which they call your three-bet. When faced with a three-bet, he will likely fold weaker kings and queens and thus go to the flop with a range which dominates KQo. Here are some examples from my Challenge where I called preflop. Both blinds call. Analysis: Preflop is a great spot to call with my tens because: 1. The cutoff has reasonable stats over a small sample size. Therefore, I should treat him as a competent player who is still mostly an unknown.

Versus the cutoff, I am big blinds deep. There is a 40 big blind stack who seems like a weaker player in the big blind. Postflop, once the Small Blind fires a big bet and the Big Blind calls, it is an easy fold with my third pair and weak flush draw. These two factors make calling AKs in position a textbook play. Postflop, once everyone checks to me, I bet my hand for value and take it down. Everyone else folds. Analysis: Looking ahead, there are two LAG players in the blinds.

Even if the LAGs choose not to squeeze and to flat instead, I will be in position with a hand which crushes their calling ranges. No such luck getting squeezed as I go to the flop heads up versus MP2. The preflop raiser bets and I call. On the turn, once he checks to me, I bet for value and take down the pot.

Analysis: When the cutoff limps and the button raises a small amount, I assume that the cutoff will not back-raise based on his stats. Additionally, since both players have medium sized stacks and suboptimal preflop stats, I can assume they will make postflop mistakes such as stacking off too lightly if I hit my set.

Postflop, I miss completely and just give up. This chapter takes a closer look at how to handle preflop aggression as well as how to dish it out. Three-Betting There are three main reasons to three-bet a single raiser. You want to get value from worse hands. This means that the villain will either call your three-bet or will four-bet you with a weaker range. Keep in mind that there are times in which you three-bet for value but then fold to a four-bet.

This is usually versus players who open loosely and often call three-bets but seldom four-bet. For example, say that you are up against a player who will call three-bets with lots of pocket pairs, weak kings, and weak queens, but will four-bet KK, AA, and AK. In this case, three-betting KQ but then folding should you be four-bet, is the right play.

Your opponent is likely to fold and you can win some blinds. There is also a psychological, metagame effect from winning pots without showing down your hand. The more you do it, the more skeptical your opponents become, which increases their likelihood of calling you down light. This is the power of developing an image through frequent aggression. It often results in you getting paid off at some point in the future when you hold a legitimate hand.

You want to isolate yourself with a fish while not giving other good players incentive to squeeze. The three-bet size doesn't have to be large. Sometimes you can even three-bet to 2. Any player that now wants to enter the pot knows that they are not closing the action. This can serve as a strong deterrent to them continuing. It is important to know why you are three-betting, so that if you face a four-bet, you know how to proceed.

Always remember that poker without a plan is bad poker. Here are some general guidelines to consider before three-betting. It will be easier for you to play profitably if you get called. Here are some hands which focus on all these points from my Challenge. Villain folds and I take the pot. Analysis: I pick up a premium hand versus a LAG and three-bet for value. It's important to do this since I am big blinds deep.

Postflop, I bet three streets for value. Everyone, including MP2, folds and I take down the pot. I have position and blockers, as well as a value hand versus his overall calling range. It is also important to look at who is still left to act in this situation. If there are weaker players in the blinds, I would prefer calling with a high, suited ace. In this case the blinds were both regulars, so calling would likely only invite a squeeze. If faced with a four-bet, I can comfortably fold.

I fold. Analysis: I misplayed this hand. A 50 big blind stack playing very tight opens from MP3. I have a hand that has a lot of value facing his opening range, but does poorly versus his four-betting range. Also, with an active player behind, I can induce a squeeze and see how the original raiser reacts. If I flat and take a flop, I have position with a hand that will be easy to play. I waste this advantage with my three-bet however. Once the villain four-bets, I simply have to fold.

MP3 calls. Villain calls. The villain checks behind. Since I have a strong hand and will be out of position postflop, I want to take the initiative by three-betting. I flop a gutshot with an overcard and elect to c-bet. This folds out low and mid pocket pairs as well as random air. These are hands which might stab if I check or which could improve on the turn.

On the river, I check and call a small bet with second pair, top kicker. Given how the hand played out and seeing how the flush draw missed, I am willing to pay off a king, or a better hand, if he has it. Looking back, there might have been value in betting, hoping to get paid off by a ten or by a weaker queen QJ and QT come to mind. But at the time, I felt that there was more value in checking. He will either fold or four-bet facing my three-bet. He is opening from the button, a position from which I expect his opening range to be the widest.

With the ace blocker, I resteal. Unfortunately, I get four-bet and have to fold. If he does end up calling, my hand is playable postflop. If this villain opened from an earlier position, I would have simply folded. If he opened from the small blind, I would have flatted in position. Everyone folds and I take down the pot. Analysis: With the weaker player limping in MP3, I expect a regular with competent stats to be isolating with a wide range.

I therefore expect to have high fold equity when I three-bet the regular, who has shown he will fold to three-bets. If the original limper calls my three-bet I will have position, initiative, and equity with a hand that can flop a solid pair with a decent kicker or a good draw. Squeezing A squeeze occurs when one player raises, one or more additional players call, then a third player reraises to "squeeze" everyone out of the pot.

The beauty of this play is that the other players are put to a test. Each has to decide whether to call, reraise, or fold. If they want to continue with the hand, they have to do so in the face of heavy strength and aggression. It is a very powerful play.

The dynamics behind profitable squeezing opportunities are different than those involved in three-betting a single opponent. For starters, most players these days are aware that squeezing is happening more. Therefore, both the initial raiser and the caller s are more likely to play back at you by four-betting or by calling. Here are the main points to keep in mind before squeezing. You also need to consider what you plan to do if you face a four-bet or see a flop. Your target can be either the opening raiser or the caller.

Just make sure you identify them early and select an appropriate range of hands with which to squeeze them. For the examples in this section, I will focus mostly on squeezing with nonpremium hands and the dynamics behind my decision making. The blinds and MP2 fold and MP3 calls. MP3 checks and I check behind. He is likely to call with dominated hands and random garbage against which my high broadway cards will play very well in position. I expect MP3 to have mostly pocket pairs when flatting the raise.

Therefore even if he calls, I can c-bet a lot of flops to take the pot away. I mostly expect him to fold to a three-bet though. I am unconcerned about betting for balance, something I almost never do at the micros. The turn is the best card in the deck for me and MP3 leads weakly. If my opponent has air, he is unlikely to fire again on the river. However, if he has any piece of the board, the price of a small raise should prove hard to resist and I expect him to continue.

I do not like how I let him see a river so cheaply, on his terms. On the river, once he checks, I fire a value bet and villain folds. Both villains fold and I take down the pot. Since the Cutoff is a nit, I expect him to have mostly pocket pairs and some other weak hands in his flatting range. Also, since both players have competent stats, I expect them to play fairly straightforward at least until I see differently.

If called, a suited ace will play well postflop versus their calling ranges. If I face a four-bet, it is an easy fold. Everyone checks to me and I check back. I call as does the SB. MP1 calls and I fold. Analysis: Preflop I am targeting MP1, the short-stacked player who seemingly doesn't like to fold.

Ideally, he would come over the top of my squeeze and I can play for stacks with my AK. When the small blind calls however, I am concerned. He should be aware that MP1 is short-stacked and is likely to shove the rest of his chips in. Given how tight he is preflop, the small blind's range should be very strong.

The flop is very connected and even though I have a gutshot, c-betting versus three players is suicidal. It is also likely that the small blind has queens or better here. On the turn, the small blind checks. MP1 bets small. With my gutshot, two overs, and flush draw, I call in position.

If the small blind were to raise here, I would quickly fold. I prefer just calling the turn rather than raising to isolate MP1, especially since I am still not sure if the small blind is going to fold. If it was just myself and MP1 on the flop or on the turn, I would have gladly gotten the money in on either street. His preflop and flop play are fine, but he should lead the turn.

The board is starting to get scary and he needs to protect his hand and to build a pot. MP2 calls and MP3 folds. I check and villain checks back. Analysis: I am targeting both players preflop. MP2 is playing loosely and has called 6 of the 7 three-bets he has faced.

I expect him to continue with lots of hands which don't fare well versus my tens. MP3 is a weak player with loose stats and 60 big blinds. He is another player whose range isn't particularly strong versus tens. I expect to face a lot of resistance on this type of flop and I would not be happy facing a raise were I to c-bet. So I decide to pot control and to check and call if MP2 decides to fire.

Also, my hand would look very strong betting this flop since I perceive my fold equity to be low. Surprisingly, MP2 checks back. At this point I am putting him on some sort of low pocket pair. I put out a blocker bet on the turn to get some value but he folds. I am happy to isolate him preflop in position with jacks.

Once he four-bets, my jacks are crushed, and I fold. In this situation, calling preflop instead of three-betting is fine once in a while. However, jacks don't play optimally versus multiple opponents, especially if you are out of position to one of the players. Three-betting is the better play, even if it means having to fold occasionally to a four-bet.

This hand illustrates an important lesson. Despite having excellent conditions for a squeeze, I had to give up on the hand and folded. Sometimes plays just don't work as you hoped and that's OK. It is important to avoid being results driven. Rather than focusing on the success or the failure of a play, concentrate on whether it was a good spot to attempt the play to begin with.

That is how a good poker player thinks about the game. Calling a Three-Bet Most players play poorly when faced with a three-bet. They either call or fold for the wrong reasons. There are four major reasons to call a three-bet. You have good implied odds. You also have the type of hand that could win you a big pot if you hit. These types of hands include pocket pairs which can flop sets and suited connectors or one-gappers which can hit trips as well as straight or flush draws.

Pocket pairs are the easiest to play postflop if you are strictly setmining. So what constitutes good implied odds? Stack sizes. A benchmark when looking to play a speculative hand with limited reads is 20 to 1. A specific read on the villain. You should consider taking less than 20 to 1 if you know that the villain has a very strong three-betting range and is likely to pay you off when you hit your hand. So if they have a. You are trapping.

This is normally done with very strong made hands like kings and aces versus opponents with really loose three-betting ranges who are likely to fold to four-bets. You face a min three-bet giving you 20 to 1 or better odds and you could potentially show your hand down cheaply.

Without a specific read, your plan in this scenario is to call one bet if you hit and often to give up unimproved on later streets. A player is getting out of line with their three-betting. In this scenario, you should be looking to just flop a pair or a draw and get value. Example: You notice that an opponent is three-betting a wide range of Ax and Kx hands along with random suited junk hands.

In this case, flatting a three-bet in position with hands like QTs and KJo should be more profitable than four-betting them or folding them. I should note that this is an area where many micro and small stakes players exhibit big leaks. They make false assumptions about just how frequently they are being three-bet by a specific villain and call too loosely with hands that are too marginal.

Here are seven hand examples from my Challenge in which I called a preflop three-bet. The BB folds and I call. My opponent checks again. Analysis: I open from early position and face a three-bet from a player in the blinds with reasonable preflop stats.

The problem with four-betting in this situation is that I telegraph the strength of my hand and give my opponent an opportunity to fold everything but kings and aces. Moreover, I will likely get postflop action from those hands anyway. Postflop, I sometimes prefer raising this type of flop texture. Raising can often induce shoves by overpairs while ensuring that my action isn't killed by a scare card.

In this specific example, a seven, a heart, or an ace could have potentially shut down my opponent. But in this case, my opponent seemed determined to call down even though the board ran out very poorly for his hand. Three-Betting and Beyond 77 Analysis: The key to this hand is the button who overcalls. Without him calling, I likely have to fold my hand. While a decent hand, eights are a fairly standard fold big blinds deep when faced with a three-bet from an aggressive player.

Moreover, I need to consider that I am out of position and am only getting 14 to 1 odds. This is not nearly enough versus a player with a wide preflop range that won't often pay me off if I hit my hand. When the button calls however, good things happen. When I check to the original raiser, I get to see his action and the action of the preflop overcaller before having to act. So in a way, I am last to reveal anything about my hand on the flop.

I have the benefit of seeing my opponents define their hands before I make any decisions. These three things take away the two big advantages that a three-bettor would have were we just heads up: weak implied odds for me and absolute position for him. The BB folds and I fold as well. Analysis: This villain is tight.

More importantly however, he starts with an 80 big blind stack. With his three-bet to 12 big blinds, I am given around 9 to 1 implied odds. This is simply not enough to speculate, so I make the disciplined fold. Analysis: Out of position to an aggressive, fully-stacked, relatively unknown villain, AJo would normally be a fold. However, I decide to call the minraise getting great odds to try to hit a pair.

Postflop, I miss completely and chuckle as the villain overbet shoves the flop as a c-bet. If I had hit an ace or a jack and the villain shoved, my decision to call would be based on my risk tolerance and on the state of my bankroll. Analysis: Villain is an unknown. But based on his stack size, stats up to this point, and bet sizing, I assume he is a weak player. Preflop, I am getting implied odds of Three-Betting and Beyond 79 The flop is an easy call with my pair and backdoor draws.

Given the low stack-to-pot ratio, I value bet small to induce action once I hit my trips on the turn. He folds and I win the hand. The SB once again checks and I follow suit. Analysis: Once again, stack sizes are key to this hand. Even if the button folds after I call, I am still getting 38 to 1 to continue.

After I miss postflop, I just give up. A large portion of the time, you are going to run into a check-call or a check-raise. When a player checks this type of board texture after three-betting preflop, it is almost never to check-fold. I minraise, he shoves, and I call. Analysis: In this hand, the villain is playing very loosely and giving me a great price to play my hand in position.

In addition, he begins the hand with around 42 big blinds. I see limited value in four-betting preflop. There is no reason to gamble when I can take a flop in position and get my money in with better equity should I hit the flop. The flop is gin for me in this situation.

He obliges me with a shove and I run into the top of his range. The combination of stack sizes, his preflop raise size, his loose and aggressive preflop stats, and the strength of my hand made this an easy preflop call and an easy postflop stack-off. Four-Betting There are two main reasons to four-bet preflop.

For value. You have a strong hand with which you want to build a pot. You are happy to get all the money in preflop versus the three-bettor. If you plan to fold to a five-bet, your four-bet is a bluff. You should have a specific read that the following are both true about the villain: A.

He is three-betting with a range that includes a lot of weak hands. He is likely to fold to a four-bet. This needs to be emphasized. There are players who three-bet a very wide and a very weak range with hands like K9o but also like calling four-bets.

Don't four-bet these players lightly. Three-Betting and Beyond 81 As I discussed in the previous section on three-betting, it is important to be able to identify if your four-bet is for value or a bluff. It is also important not to be result oriented after you make your decision.

Sizing Your Four-Bet Given the typical scenario of big blind stacks, a 3 to 3. You want to bet the minimum that forces your opponent to either shove or fold and 25 big blinds accomplishes this. If you make it any more, your bluffs start becoming too expensive. If you make it any less, you give your opponents good odds to flat call your four-bet. As mentioned above, versus unknowns or known calling stations, you should not be four-bet bluffing. So feel free to size your four-bets larger for value against them.

As these reasons increase however, you should be more willing to put in a four-bet bluff. Here are some hand examples taken from my database in which I four-bet. Villain checks. Analysis: I open from the hijack and face a three-bet from a LAG in the small blind. I opened for pot preflop and four-bet to 26 big blinds versus his 9 big blind three-bet.

Postflop, my hand plays itself. Given the low stack-to-pot ratio, I bet small to get value or to induce action from worse and the villain complies. Analysis: I open and get cold called by a nit and an unknown. Both are shortstackers and face a large three-bet squeeze by an active unknown with 99 big blinds. Because of the huge three-bet size, I four-bet to the smallest amount. Three-Betting and Beyond 83 possible which, at 35 big blinds, still commits me.

This allows any of the players to call or to shove while leaving open a window of perceived fold equity. Given the two cold callers with small stacks and the huge three-bet, I would never four-bet as a bluff in this spot. The BTN folds and I take the pot. Analysis: I open from the cutoff and get three-bet by an active LAG on the button. Given that I raised from a steal position, I expect my opponent to three-bet me lightly more frequently with position.

My hand is good to four-bet as a bluff for two reasons: 1. If he does elect to call, my hand has postflop playability. The CO folds and I take down the pot. Analysis: This hand is very similar to the last one even though the villain in this hand is a TAG. I open from the hijack and face a three-bet from the cutoff. The villain has been sufficiently active in his three-betting over my sample size and I hold a suited ace with a wheel card. All this adds up to a profitable four-bet opportunity.

I four-bet to 23 big blinds and take it down. It folds around to me and I move all-in. Analysis: With AKs and facing a min three-bet squeeze from a half-stacked maniac, my best option is to just shove. Not shoving here with AK and fourbetting to 24 big blinds is a common mistake. These type of players will often just flat your four-bet and see a flop. So I want to make sure I see all five cards with my hand by shoving. It also allows me to win all their money. The last thing I want to do is allow my opponent to see a flop with a weaker hand and subsequently fold to a shove.

Villain calls again. The river is a blank and he scoops the pot. Once he calls the four-bet, the stack-to-pot ratio is small enough. Three-Betting and Beyond 85 such that I can make small bets and still get stacks in by the river. Once again, I want to give him the option to call or to raise me at any point. Seeing his slow-played aces in that spot made for a cooler. I would have gladly gotten all the money in preflop or on any of the postflop streets. As always, your options are calling, three-betting, and folding.

If you have initiative and position you can play weaker cards. If you have initiative and strong cards, you can play profitably out of position. In both cases, initiative is important. Calling is often an unprofitable play whereas three-betting is often a profitable one. Folding is a great way to minimize your losses. There are spots when calling is OK and I'll get to those later. First, look at my overall stats from the blinds when facing a steal from the cutoff or the button figure Note that these are not my Versus Steal stats since those would include small blind steals as well.

I removed the times the small blind raised and I was in the big blind since being in position in that capacity would completely change the dynamic of the situation. I can already tell you that over that sample, my play is too loose and passive from the big blind. I would like to see me reduce my VPIP and increase my preflop raise. Next, I'll discuss four graphs from my database. Since my results span 10NL through NL, the results are listed in big bets instead of dollars.

In each situation, I am in the blinds and face an open from either the cutoff or the button. Both my showdown and non showdown winnings are consistently positive in this scenario. Part of this could be attributed to having a strong range which allows me to barrel postflop if called. While I am winning from the big blind see figure , I am losing from the small blind at a greater rate than if I just folded.

Folding equals a net loss of around. The main reason for this is that by calling from the small blind, I am inviting squeezes and overcalls. It is much easier to win a heads up pot than it is to win a three-way pot, especially when you are always out of position.

Here is what happens when I three-bet those hands figure As you can see, figure is very similar to my general three-betting graph figure , page Both my showdown and non-showdown winnings are positive. Even though I should be close to break-even given my expected value, the general pattern is nowhere near what it is when I am three-betting.

This is true even when adjusted for expectation. Before I discuss spots where calling from the blinds is the best play, remember this: the majority of the time when faced with a single raiser from late position, you should be debating whether to three-bet or to fold not whether to three-bet or to call.

Three-Betting Versus a Steal I will address this scenario first since it should be your default play if you are planning to proceed with the hand. You should three-bet from the blinds for many of the same reasons you would three-bet in general.

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